sapporo

the neon lights only make everything colder as i search for the subway station. i was hoping to see some consadole fans on their way to the game as well, but if they are they aren’t as noticeable. not that i’m a fan, but the club store was the only thing close when i needed gloves and a scarf.

not content with staying inside for another evening, i also bought tickets to hokkaido consadole vs yokohama at the same time. thankfully buying at the store gave me a firm paper ticket, helping me avoid stumbling through some unintelligible (to me) online mess. the gloves and scarf helped as well, even as the freezing wind seeped in the gaps between them and my coat.

i pick out a small group all wearing vivid red jackets, at least superficially similar to the colours of the home team. they stand out against the snow white pavement, tar black road and concrete grey buildings. i tail them around a few corners and reach the subway station, it looks like i chose correctly as when i catch them i see some small banners, and a scarf or two that matches mine. they don’t wear the gloves though, instead the four, all early middle aged men, each wear slightly faded leather covering their hands, no doubt filled with quality fleece.

the subway ticket machine has an english option, making the transaction easy. more fans begin to mill around in the few minutes between my arrival and the train that would take me to the stadium, a thoroughly modern venue with a swooping roof. unlike any other football fans i have seen in my life, they respect the lines on the platform, and diligently dispose of the waste from their pre-game snacks.

after arrival to the closest station, it is a brief walk to the game. now as it gets busier and busier, everyone i can see is a supporter, including some in the sky blue yokohama colours. i’m tempted to buy some sort of alcoholic drink from the bar before going to my seat, but the weather dissuades me. even ostensibly indoors it will be too cold for any drink to be refreshing.

i hear the crowd’s chant as i start to climb the stairs up to my seating bay. a few flights later i walk through the opening into the stadium proper. a cavernous structure, at best half filled with fans given the weather and the poor quality opposition. still, those who were here were loud and good natured. only twenty minutes later the players are lined up and ready to go. this is the game i know, and i find myself dearly hoping that consadole wins. turning to my left i see many others who feel the same way.

the whistle blows. the game kicks off. let’s fucking go.